Towards the end of 2014, a media release from md:ceuticals alerted the beauty industry to a breakthrough in the treatment of melasma or the appearance of brown, tan or blue-gray spots on the face, otherwise known as hyperpigmentation. Read on for more on the wonder ingredient, tranexamic acid.
Melasma is a common disorder of the pigmentation in the central face, along the cheekbones and jawline, and is seen predominantly in people with olive or darker skins. In fact, the global black, Asian and Arab populations cite it as one of their five most common skin disorders.
Supposed causes range from the external (excessive UV light exposure) to the internal (genetic predisposition and/or hormonal influences, i.e. pregnancy).
While hydroquinone has long been a mainstay for the topical treatment of the condition, concerns have been expressed by the medial fraternity as to its adverse effects: these range from ochronosis (where the skin actually darkens while the bleaching agent is used), to allergic and irritant contact dermatitis, melanocyte toxicity and even carcinogenicity(*).
Although the most common side-effect, ochronosis, is rare in Europe and the States, it has been seen a great deal on the African continent, where hydroquinone concentrations of 10 to 20 percent have been used to treat skin discoloration with melasma.
As there is no perfect solution for melasma, research in the medical aesthetics industry is ongoing. The hope is to establish newer, safer and more innovative treatments for this psychosocial disorder, which can result in significant stress and embarrassment for the patient, especially when their career involves considerable time in the public eye.
Medical aesthetics brand md:ceuticals has combined high concentrations of whitening, exfoliating, antioxidant and brightening agents in its new product range, md:complex melanoceuticals. Ingredients in the formulation include glutathione, azelaic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, glycolic acid, ascorbic and citric acids, which act in the different stages of the melanogenesis process by blocking the appearance of cutaneous hyperpigmentation while at the same time maintaining the integrity of the skin.
The key ingredient, however, is tranexamic acid, which has been shown in numerous clinical studies to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation without the adverse reactions mentioned above(*).
Its application in a recent study of 128 patients showed a 95% reduction in the pigmentation of 20% of patients; a 70% reduction in 30% of patients; and a 60% reduction in 33% of patients.
According to Ana Engelbrecht of Anaclinical.co.za, ‘Hyperpigmentation has become a common disorder in recent years. Twenty-five years ago, when I entered the profession, it was not as common an ailment as it is today. Almost every second client we are treating these days has some type of pigmentation issue, be it sun-induced hyperpigmentation, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or hormonal pigmentation. Peelings, microdermabrasion, lasers and various devices have been used over the years to treat the condition, some effectively and some not, but often these treatments were too aggressive and the result was a similarly aggressive recurrence of the hyperpigmentation, leaving the client/s very despondent – especially after spending thousands of rands,’ explains Engelbrecht.
‘Md:ceuticals’ melanoceuticals is effective in not only treating epidermal, but also mixed and dermal hyperpigmentation in a gentle and effective way,’ says Engelbrecht. ‘Furthermore, results are rapid. It is effective on all hyperpigmentation disorders, especially post-inflammatory pigmentation, which is unfortunately not only caused by cutaneous inflammation or injury, but also by some treatments and devices. What we start to see, already after the first treatment, is a simultaneous breaking-up of the hyperpigmentation into smaller patches and a lightening of it. Surprisingly enough, it is not as expensive for the client as some other treatments have been in the past,’ she concludes.