Have you ever tried an outlandish beauty trend on the internet? You’re not alone. In 2023, nearly 30% of us across the globe watched make-up reviews on social media, exposing ourselves to a bevy of unusual trends spanning across skincare, make-up and more. In this article, Kelli Clifton dissects six of the most detrimental beauty fads with input from dermatologists Dr Vanessa Lapiner and Dr Tarryn Jacobs. This will make you think twice before reaching for that nasal tanning spray or following random skincare trends.
Trend: Sunscreen contouring
What is it?
When you contour with sunscreen, one “strategically” places a sunscreen (containing lower than SPF 30) on the face or body to create tan lines for a contouring effect. First, you’d apply the lower SPF to the areas where you’d usually apply bronzer, allowing these parts to tan. Some people also opt not to apply sunscreen in these areas at all in the first step. As a second step, you would use a higher SPF on the places where highlighter and concealer are applied, resulting in those areas being lighter after spending time in the sun. The main aim is to create a “natural contour”, using the sun, without the use of make-up.
Why you shouldn’t try it:
There’s a long list of long-term damage you could experience when trying the sunscreen contouring trend, namely fine lines, wrinkles, sagging, sun spots, and an increased chance of skin cancer. None of these risks are worth looking more chiselled.
Do this instead:
Lean on make-up or a facial tanner instead to create sculpted cheekbones or abs. Use an angled foundation brush to enhance and blend the lines of the contour to make it look as natural as possible.
Dr Jacobs weighs in:
“It’s never advised to expose your skin, albeit only parts of it, to the sun without sunscreen in order to tan those parts. A tan is a sign that your skin has been damaged. It’s trying to protect itself by producing more melanin in an attempt to absorb more UV radiation. Repeating this over time increases the risks of skin cancer and premature skin ageing.”
Trend: 15-step skincare routines
What is it?
It’s an extensive routine consisting of skincare products that has the potential to overwhelm the skin. Including 15 products in your daily routine could result in breakouts and a disrupted skin barrier in the long term.
Why you shouldn’t try it:
Social media has the knack to convince us that we need products that serve little to no purpose in our day-to-day routines. There are heaps of cons when it comes to extravagant skincare. It’s pricey to maintain, time-consuming, and could have long-lasting, damaging effects on your skin.
Do this instead:
Simplify your routine by using this rule of thumb. All you need is a:
- Cleanser
- Toner or essence (optional)
- Targeted serum
- Moisturiser
- Sunscreen
Optional extras
- Micellar water (for make-up wearers)
- Mask (to give the skin additional radiance)
Dr Lapiner weighs in:
“When it comes to skincare, it’s strategy over steps. Once your foundational skincare is in place (SPF, antioxidants, your barrier-supporting emollients, and retinoids, if tolerated), then work out your pet skin peeve and target that!”
Trend: Morning shed
What is it?
Made popular by content creators, this skincare trend encourages consumers to keep their skin and hair care products applied overnight and only remove it the next morning. The results are meant to be healthy-looking hair and glowy, radiant skin.
Why you shouldn’t try it:
Even though this trend promises flawless-looking skin, the outcome could result in the opposite. Piling your skin with many conflicting active ingredients before bedtime could lead to severe irritation. Plus, we don’t see you getting a very restful night’s sleep with everything but the bathroom sink plopped onto your face. Simpler is always better and more effective.
Do this instead:
Double cleanse before bedtime to eradicate the skin from the day’s SPF, make-up, and other dirt build-up. Apply your specified serum to help with any skincare concerns. Finish with a nourishing night cream to support the skin’s repair and regeneration process.
Trend: Nasal tanning spray
What is it?
It’s a nasal spray that contains a synthetic hormone called melanotan II. It mimics the natural hormone that stimulates melanin production (this is the pigment that gives the skin colour). The spray is meant to make the skin more tanned when exposed to sunlight.
Why you shouldn’t try it:
There are so many health risks and side effects that could occur when ingesting nasal spray. The main ones are prolonged and painful erections, nausea, vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, premature ageing, wrinkles, skin infections, and an increased risk of sunburns and skin cancers.
Do this instead:
The Aesthetic Appointment team will always encourage you to practice sun safety, but if you’re chasing a sun-kissed glow, stick to self-tanning lotions, spritzes, or mousses to achieve a tan. Always wear sunscreen to protect the skin from UV rays.
Dr Lapiner weighs in:
“Would you apply a risky cream to enlarge your breasts by stimulating your breast cells? Nasal tanning sprays or injections are just as risky because they stimulate the melanocytes (the cells making up our moles) and can accelerate their growth. We just don’t know the long-term dangers of whether that can trigger erratic behaviour and melanoma down the line. Other side effects include dangerous breakdown of your muscle cells (rhabdomyolysis) as well as encephalopathy. Please steer clear of it – it’s honestly not worth it!”
Dr Jacobs weighs in:
“Say no to nasal tanning sprays! First, these are not regulated substance, so there is nobody overseeing the safety of them. The active ingredient in the tanning spray is melanotan II. Theoretically, if you overstimulate the pigment cells, there could be an association with melanoma and this is a major reason why I wouldn’t recommend these nasal tanning sprays. There have been several case reports of melanoma and onset of atypical moles. Other more common side effects include acne, facial flushing, gastrointestinal tract upset, and sensitivity to sunlight, which I feel the general public should be aware of.”
Trend: Scalp popping
What is it?
Scalp popping AKA hair cracking is a technique that involves pulling out strands of hair, making a popping or cracking sound. It is meant to cure severe headaches, such as migraines, and help with scalp tension.
Why you shouldn’t try it:
There are no proven facts that it helps with scalp tension and headaches. It can cause damage to the skin, hair, and underlying blood vessels. Scalp popping could eventually lead to traction alopecia due to the constant pulling of the hair. Hair follicles can become inflamed, damaged and scarred, resulting in permanent hair loss. There’s also the obvious risk of hair breakage.
Do this instead:
If you have a headache or migraine, try at-home methods such as reducing stimulation by sitting in a dark room or trying a warm or cold compress, instead of turning to scalp popping. In severe cases, turn to a neurologist for advice. To help scalp tension, gently massage your neck, temples, and shoulders.
Trend: Sunscreen denial
What is it?
There’s an anti-sunscreen movement that’s alive and well on TikTok that claims sunscreen contains potentially harmful chemicals, prohibits you from not receiving enough natural sunlight exposure, and isn’t a necessary product in your skincare routine.
Why you shouldn’t try it:
Skipping SPF is more harmful than you think. Through daily, frequent application, it protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays, prevents sunburn, the formation of fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, and, last but certainly not least, reduces the risk of skin cancer.
Read my article here on why you shouldn’t forget your sunscreen.
Do this instead:
Add sunscreen to your skincare routine and apply it daily, as the last step in your regimen, to protect your skin. Use a sunscreen that contains an SPF of 30 or 50.
Dr Jacobs weighs in:
“Despite the well-established role of sunscreen in the prevention of skin cancer and premature skin ageing, there can be quite a few misconceptions and controversies that prevent people from using it. It’s important to realise that over decades of use, sunscreen filter ingredients have not been found to be harmful to human health. The general recommendation published for all South Africans is to apply sunscreen daily to all exposed areas.”
In conclusion
With 2025 around the corner, one of our skincare resolutions is to do our research before diving head-first into a crazy trend.
What beauty trends would you add to our list? Email us.
About the author
Kelli’s no stranger to the beauty biz, with this being her thirteenth year in the industry. She’s got over 100 issues of FAIRLADY Magazine under her belt, where she worked her way up from Beauty Intern to Beauty Editor. She had two loves – beauty styling, along with beauty writing but the main reason for her putting pen to paper each issue was the community she built – full of fellow beauty enthusiasts, sharing everything from their favourite fragrances to their skincare woes. Since leaving FAIRLADY in 2018 to pursue her own business of beauty content creation, consulting, social media management and more, she’s had the honour of working with both local and international brands, creating successful, personalised workshops in the makeup, skincare and fragrance space. She currently manages the marketing of some of