Professor Ardeshir Bayat examines the changing landscape of dermatological beauty, where skincare meets science to enhance both aesthetics and skin health. This article explores recent developments shaping the field – from dermatology-grade bioactives to advanced ingredient delivery systems. By examining these innovations, Prof Bayat outlines how they are redefining skincare and promoting long-term skin wellness.
Dermatological beauty and skincare science
Skincare is no longer just about cosmetic enhancement; it now prioritises the preservation of skin health alongside visible improvements.
The demand for efficacious skincare solutions continues to rise as consumers seek products that not only improve appearance but also support long-term biological skin function.
Environmental stressors, lifestyle habits, and advances in dermatological research have all contributed to the emergence of more sophisticated and functional skincare formulations.
Key advances in skincare
1. Dermatology-grade bioactives: Targeted ingredients for skin health
Bioactive ingredients are central to modern skincare, designed to address a broad spectrum of dermatological concerns. Retinoid alternatives, peptides, and plant-derived compounds are now foundational in advanced formulations.
Bakuchiol, a botanical retinol alternative, demonstrates collagen-stimulating and anti-inflammatory properties without the irritation typically associated with retinoids.
Peptides support skin repair by promoting extracellular matrix regeneration, while growth factors such as epidermal growth factor (EGF) and platelet-rich plasma (PRP) have shown potential in stimulating fibroblast activity and enhancing skin rejuvenation.
2. Antioxidant formulations: Combating oxidative stress
Chronic low-grade inflammation, or inflamm-ageing, is a recognised contributor to skin ageing. Innovative antioxidant combinations are being formulated to mitigate oxidative stress at the cellular level.
Synergistic blends of vitamins C and E, resveratrol, ferulic acid, and niacinamide help neutralise reactive oxygen species, support barrier function, and improve overall skin tone and resilience.
3. Skin-identical ingredients: Reinforcing the skin barrier
Ingredients that mimic the skin’s native components play a critical role in maintaining hydration and reinforcing barrier integrity.
Ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids – core constituents of the skin’s lipid matrix and natural moisturising factors – are essential for maintaining barrier function and preventing trans-epidermal water loss.
Hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan, is widely used for its hydrophilic capacity and dermal plumping effects.
4. Exposome protection: Shielding against environmental aggressors
UV radiation, pollution, and climate variations – collectively known as the exposome – accelerate extrinsic skin ageing.
Advances in photoprotection now integrate broad-spectrum UV filters with antioxidants and anti-pollution agents to provide comprehensive environmental defence.
Innovations such as infrared radiation filters, blue light blockers, and polymeric pollution shields are being incorporated into next-generation protective skincare.
5. Nanotechnology: Enhancing ingredient delivery
Nanotechnology is transforming how actives are delivered into the skin. By encapsulating ingredients within nanoscale carriers – such as liposomes, niosomes, and solid lipid nanoparticles – these systems enhance bioavailability, penetration, and targeted delivery while minimising irritation.
Controlled-release mechanisms also improve therapeutic outcomes by reducing the need for frequent application and limiting systemic exposure.
Advances in personalised skincare
6. Epigenetics and chrono-cosmetics: Aligning skincare with biological rhythms
Epigenetic research is uncovering how environmental and behavioural factors influence gene expression related to skin ageing. This has led to epigenetically informed formulations that support DNA repair and resilience pathways.
Chrono-cosmetics, meanwhile, optimise efficacy by aligning product application with the skin’s circadian rhythm, enhancing repair at night and prioritising protection during the day.
7. Senolytic technologies: Targeting cellular ageing
Senolytic strategies aim to selectively eliminate senescent cells, which accumulate with age and contribute to chronic inflammation and tissue dysfunction. Emerging research suggests that clearing these cells may improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and stimulate regeneration.
While still in early development, senolytic skincare represents a novel approach to tackling ageing at its root.
Looking ahead: Skincare science and future developments
Ongoing research continues to deepen our understanding of skin biology. Future innovations are likely to centre on highly personalised regimens, ingredient stability, and precision delivery technologies.
With insights from epigenetics, nanoscience, and regenerative medicine, skincare is evolving beyond surface aesthetics to become a proactive tool for maintaining long-term skin health and functional longevity.
Source: Read Prof Bayat’s full article originally published at www.happi.com
BSc (Hons) MB BS PhD
Prof Ardeshir Bayat is a clinician-scientist and Director of the MRC Wound Healing Unit at the University of Cape Town, South Africa. He leads a multidisciplinary research laboratory with capabilities spanning in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo clinical studies. With extensive industry experience, including collaborations with multinational pharmaceutical and cosmetic companies as well as founding his own start-ups, Prof Bayat is internationally recognised for his work in skin healing and scarring. He is particularly renowned for his research on dermal fibrosis and skin of colour.